Pearls are unique among gemstones because they form within living mollusks rather than being mined & stand out as the only gemstones formed by living creatures. Their appeal lies in the natural iridescence of nacre.
Formation & Nature:
Biogenic Origin --> Formation of Pearls occurs when an irritant (natural debris or a deliberately inserted nucleus) becomes lodged inside a mollusk (oyster, mussel, etc.). The creature secretes layers of nacre (aragonite platelets bound by conchiolin) around it.
Nacre Layers --> The quality, thickness, and orientation of nacre layers determine luster and durability. More and finer layers yield a deeper, more reflective surface.
Cultured vs. Natural:
Natural Pearls --> formed without human intervention and are extremely rare today.
Cultured Pearls --> result from a technician implanting a nucleus into the mollusk; most pearls on the market are cultured (freshwater or saltwater).
Grading Factors:
Luster --> Sharpness and depth of reflected light; most critical.
Surface Quality --> Blemishes, spots, or ridges reduce value; cleaner surfaces are preferred.
Shape --> Round is classic and generally most valuable; baroque and other shapes have a market in contemporary designs.
Size --> Larger pearls (in each category) command higher prices, especially South Sea and Tahitian.
Color & Overtone --> Base color and subtle overtones (rose, silver, peacock) affect desirability; often a matter of personal taste and fashion.
Matching --> Uniformity in size, color, and luster across all pearls in a piece.
Pearl Treatments – Common Enhancements:
Bleaching --> Lighten or even out body colour (especially for saltwater Akoya and South Sea pearls).
Dyeing --> Produce or intensify colours (e.g., black, blue, pink, lavender).
Coating / Luster Enhancement --> Boost surface sheen or protect the nacre.
Irradiation --> Darken or modify body colour (less common)
Pearls are often treated to improve their colour, luster, or durability. Treatments are generally accepted in the trade like bleaching, dyeing, coating, occasional irradiation, or stabilization to enhance appearance but require disclosure. Understanding these common enhancements helps to make informed choices and care properly for your pearls.
Origin --> Primarily China.
Shape & Size --> There is a wide range of shapes (button, coin, baroque, near-round), and sizes are typically 5–12 mm.
Colour --> Naturally white, cream, pink, lavender; dyed also common.
Luster & Surface --> Good luster; surface may have minor blemishes, especially in lower grades.
Price & Use --> These are generally the most affordable cultured pearls. They are versatile for strands, earrings, and casual-to-formal jewelry
(Notes: Grown in freshwater mussels, often multiple pearls per mussel, allowing varied shapes and sizes)
Origin --> Japan & China.
Shape & Size --> Mostly near-round; sizes 6–9 mm (occasionally up to -10 mm).
Colour --> Classic white or cream with overtone (rose, silver); sometimes light gold.
Luster & Surface --> High, sharp luster; relatively clean surfaces in higher grades.
Price & Use --> Mid-range; iconic “pearl necklace” look; ideal for classic single or multi-strand necklaces and stud earrings.
(Notes: Cultured in saltwater Pinctada fucata oysters; typically one pearl per oyster per cycle)
Origin --> Australia, Indonesia, Philippines.
Shape & Size --> Large (9–20+ mm); shapes include round, drop, baroque.
Colour --> White to silvery-white; golden South Sea pearls range from light gold to deep “royal” gold.
Luster & Surface --> Soft, satiny to high luster; surface often very clean in premium grades.
Price & Use --> Among the priciest cultured pearls due to size and rarity; used in luxury necklaces, pendants, and statement pieces.
(Notes: Cultured in large Pinctada maxima oysters; slow growth yields thick nacre and significant weight/size)
Origin --> French Polynesia (notably Tahiti).
Shape & Size --> 8 -16 mm; shapes range from round to baroque and drop.
Colour --> Naturally dark body colours like grey, black, peacock (green/blue overtones), aubergine; overtone variety gives unique character.
Luster & Surface --> Medium to high luster; surface quality varies, higher grades have fewer blemishes.
Price & Use --> Premium-tier pricing but often less than South Sea; prized for distinctive dark hues in necklaces, earrings, and modern designs.
(Notes: Cultured in black-lipped oysters (Pinctada margaritifera); colour influenced by oyster and water conditions)
Origin --> Byproduct of both saltwater and freshwater cultures.
Shape & Size --> Irregular, often baroque; sizes vary.
Colour --> Matches host variety (e.g., Keshi Akoya are white/cream; Keshi South Sea are larger and white/gold).
Luster & Surface --> Very high luster because entirely nacre, but the shape is irregular.
Price & Use --> Valued by collectors; used in artisanal and contemporary jewelry for an organic look.
(Notes: Form when an oyster rejects the nucleus yet continues nacre deposition)
Origin --> Saltwater; grown against the shell interior.
Shape & Size --> Dome-shaped (hemispherical); larger than typical cultured pearls.
Colour --> Similar to host oyster variety (white, gold, black).
Luster & Surface --> Good luster; back is flat where attached.
Price & Use --> Used in large cabochon-style pendants or earrings; offers big pearls at a lower cost than full-round.
(Notes: Nacre thickness is thinner; careful setting needed to protect flat side)
Origin --> Edison Pearls are unique type of freshwater farmed pearls cultured in China, they are also familier by their size, great lustre, and variety of colours.
Shape & Size --> Their typical sizes are comparable to those of South Sea pearls, ranging from 8 mm to 16–18 mm and sometimes greater in size.
Colour --> The colour variety of Edison Pearls is unique for freshwater pearls, ranging from traditional white and cream to deep purple, pink, peach, lavender, gold, champagne, bronze, other metallic tones, and even deeper shades.
Treatment & Identification --> Edison Pearls may be lightly bleached or dyed to level out tones, but the majority are essentially natural in colour. Post-harvest colour treatments and optical brightening can be identified by gemological testing.
Glass or Shell Nucleus with Coating --> Often inexpensive and uniform, but lacks genuine nacre depth, lower durability, and a different feel.
Distinction --> Real cultured pearls have weight, subtle surface variations, and “tooth test” feel slightly gritty vs. smooth for imitations.
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